Match up the corner gaskets with the appropriate jambs making sure the gasket will make a perfect joint with the head and sill. Peel and stick the corner gaskets to the jambs.

Attach the head and sill to the jambs with #8 x 2-1/2" screws (provided). Four screws should be used at each corner.
Note: Make sure the roller track and sash alignment rail are in the head and sill profiles before assembling the frame.

Measure the rough opening to insure a proper fit. The opening should be no more than 3/4" greater in width and height than the actual unit. The sill plate must be level.

Apply a bead of silicone caulking along the sill of the rough opening then lift the assembled frame by the jambs and set it into the rough opening so the operable sash will be on the inside of the house.

Using wood shims, square the door into the rough opening leaving 1/8" to 1/4" space to allow for insulation and expansion of the wood. Place the shims at 12" intervals, 4" to 6" from the corners. Make sure the unit is plumb, level, and square. Measure from corner to corner to square the frame (upper left to lower right and upper right to lower left).

Install #8 x 2-1/2" installation screws through the pre-drilled installation holes in the frame. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS, as this could cause the frame to bow.
Cover the holes on the active side with installation hole plugs provided.
Note: The holes on the inactive side will be covered by the fixed sash.

Slide the alignment rails as far as possible towards the deadlite side of the jamb. Place the fixed sash in the frame and slide it over the alignment rails and into position. Start the sash at an angle to get it started over the alignment rails. (below) Make sure the sash is flush against the head and sill and fully seated in the jamb pocket once it is in position.

Check the fixed sash to ensure it is square to the frame then secure the sash to the alignment rails with #8 x 1-1/4" screws (provided). Place the screws approximately 5-3/4" from each end of the sash then evenly space the remaining screws between the first two along the groove.
 

Note: The 5-foot and 6-foot doors require four screws top and bottom while the 8-foot doors require five screws top and bottom.

Once the screws have been inserted, cover the screws by attaching the trim beads along the head and sill.

Seal and caulk the ends of the trim bead with the proper grade of silicone caulk. Caulk the interior at the top and bottom where the interlock meets the head and sill.

Secure the fixed sash to the frame by attaching the deadlite clip to the jambs where the sash and frame meet with #6 x 1-1/4" screws (provided). Place screws approximately 6" from the top, 6" from the bottom and the third screw midway between the two on both the frame and the sash. (below) Attach the clip cover once the screws have been inserted.

Note: Pre-drill holes in the aluminum deadlite clip with 1/8" drill bit.

Turn the operable sash on its side and install the rollers in the cutouts on the end that will be the bottom of the sash when placed in the frame. The adjustment screws should be facing the corner. Secure the rollers with #8 x 1/2" screws (provided).

From the interior side of the frame, insert the operable sash into the frame by tilting the top of the sash up into the frame and setting it down on the sill. If necessary, adjust the rollers to square the sash to the frame.

From the exterior side of the frame, insert the screen in the same manner as the operable sash, adjusting the rollers as necessary from the inside.

Note: Flip the cap to uncover the adjustment screw.

Attach the sash stop to the head of the frame using #8 x 5/8" pan screws (provided). Attach the stops at the dimpled areas on the head.

Mark the center of the screen track so the centerline of the bottom screw of the screen keeper will be horizontally aligned with the centerline of the bottom screw of the interior screen handle. Attach the screen keeper hook up to the screen track using #4 X 3/8" pan screws (provided in bag attached to screen). The top screw should be 1/2" above the bottom screw for optimal adjustment. Adjust keeper as needed. Attach the exterior handle to the screen with screws provided in screen hardware bag.

Install the multi-point assembly so lever tail inserts through lower hole using #8 x 3/4" screws. (For single point operation, refer to handle instructions.) Follow the instructions in the lock handle packet and install the lock handle set on the operable sash.

Using #8 x 1-3/4" screws (provided), attach the keeper to the frame where the jamb and the operable sash meet. Use the dimple marks in the frame as reference for location. Snap the threshold in place on the sill and head.

Finish off the exterior of the door. Use trim coil stock to cap off gaps and trim the opening. Be sure to use a good brand of silicone caulking to seal the entire perimeter of the door. Do not leave gaps where water or outside elements can penetrate into the home but do not caulk over the weep holes along the sill. Finish off the interior of the door. Insert insulation between the door frame and the rough opening. Do not over pack the insulation, as this may cause the frame to bow. Open and close the sash to check operation and make sure the sash is square to the frame. Also, check to see if any of the perimeter seals are exposed. Adjust the sash rollers if needed. (right)

Snap round covers over installation screws in the jamb. Snap double hole covers in the active sash. Trim hole covers at score lines as needed.